Motoko is back answering our reader's toughest makeup questions.

I don't know what to use

Dear Motoko,
I have tried using different types of cosmetics but have failed because if they don't bring me pimples, they have bleach and I don't want to bleach. On top of that, I have oily skin. Advise me on what to use please and I stay in Uganda where we have alot of sunshine. Hope to hear from. Maureen Sylvia.
Maureen

Maureen,
Cosmetics containing bleach do not protect the skin from sun damage. To my knowledge, bleaching products are used post sun damage to even out color (age-spots, hyper-pigmentation, etc.). If you don't want to lighten or darken your skin, stay away from products with bleach. It is best to prevent sun damage, at any stage, and continue to use SPF daily to prevent futher damage from occuring. I recommend you use hypo allergineic, oil free moisturizer, sunscreen and makeup products without mineral oils that are 100% natural, made with organic ingredients, with NO titanium nor parabens.

I love your work

Dear Motoko,

I love your work on Sanaa Lathan & Gabrielle Union. What foundation(s), including shade names & colors, do you use on them? Also, I am Black & Chinese with ptosis of the right eye. How can I apply my eyeshadow so that it looks even? Thank you
Lisa

Hi Lisa,
Thank you very much for your comments. I use Bobbi Brown's foundation stick for both Sanaa Lathan & Gabrielle Union. For Sanaa, I use #'s 5,6 7 and 10. For Gabrielle, I use #'s 6, 6.5, 7 and 10. I always mix the shades for highlights and contour on the face. If I don't use Bobbi Brown for Sanna and Gabrielle I rely on RCMA (Research Council of Make-up) Sinto #'s 3, 4 and 5.

I wish I could meet you and show you how to do your eyes specifically. Here a few general suggestions that you can try; by using darker eye shadows in black, charcoal, dark blue-grey, dark or brown, combined with black liner, you can create a more even look between your eyes.

Apply the dark eye shadow all over the drooping eyelid first. Use eye liner along your lash line- if you can apply the eyeliner without hurting yourself of course! Then apply the same color on your other eyelid until the eyes look the same. Drawing dark eyeliner on your bottom eyelid also might help your eyes look more even. The eye that is more open may not need eye liner. Curl your lashes and apply mascara. I hope this helps!

Neutral lip color

Dear Motoko,

I've seen in japanese beauty magazines all those neutral lip colors with just a hint of gloss. How would one achieve that look?
Kay

Hi Kay,
You can mix any neutral lip color with a clear gloss on the top of your hand before application. If you want less pigment, then add more clear gloss.

Let's say you apply mauve or tangerine or brown color on your lip, but you want to have nice healthy neutral lip color. By blotting your mouth with tissue 1-3 times and adding a light neutral pink/peachy/golden color gloss on top, you will neutralize the color. Here are some great glosses and lip colors for you to try and mix:

Yves Saint Laurent : Golden Gloss Shimmering Lip Gloss #11 (Mixed with Gold and pink)
Chanel : Levres Scintillantes #92 Glitters & #98 Galactic
Nars : Lip Gloss Turkish Delight (pink sorbet) & Triple X (clear Shine)
Nars : Duo Lip Gloss Harlow + Sweet Dreams (pink gold shimmer/Silvery Mauve Shimmer)

Here are some lip color recommendations that are often advertised in Japanese magazines.
M.A.C.: Lipstick - “ Classical (limited), Soft Lust, High tea, Brew
Dior: Addict Ultra Shine Sheer lip color #256 (Softners), #222 (Beige), #142 (Meringue)

I hope you can find the right color for you.

Photograph by Samantha Williams. Face model Joanne Chia.