Skincare specialist Yoshiko Roth answers your questions!

Question:
I have heard that Camilla Oil actually stimulates hair growth, and that massaging the scalp with this oil can help hair to grow faster. Do you by chance know if that is true?

Yoshiko: Camellia Oil (called "Tsubaki" Oil in Japan), is widely used in Japan for areas including hair care, body care, nail care and even cooking in some parts of Japan. While it is hailed for its nourishing properties and giving hair beautiful shine, evidence of actually promoting hair growth is limited. I have not actually read or seen any evidence that massaging your scalp with camellia oil stimulates hair growth.

If you are interested in hair growth products and would like to stick with natural options, I would consider botanical-based brands that specialize in scalp care, such as Renee Furterer and Phyto. These brands, and others, have developed concentrated ampulle treatments with essential oils and extracts that stimulate the hair follicle, and counteract the effects of hair loss, whether it is due to hormonal changes, age or stress.

Renee Furterer (available at www.sephora.com) is one of the leaders in scalp care. I have heard a lot of great things about their "Triphasic Revitalizing Formula" ($66). This intense ampulle treatment is applied once or twice a week for 2 months after washing hair, to increase micro-circulation and protect the hair bulb, in order to help your hair root produce stronger hair and to stop progressive hair loss. Renee Furterer's products are all backed up by extensive research. Another Renee Furterer Scalp treatment product, "Complexe 5 Regenerating Extract" ($42), is used once or twice a week before you wash your hair. This product, too, is designed to increase micro-circulation of the scalp and overall "optimize the action of other treatment products" by facilitating penetration of the scalp.

Hair loss can also be a result of malnutrition, so supplements may actually help internally to counter the symptoms. High-dosage biotin supplements are the most common hair-loss supplements, since biotin helps keratin production, an essential part of hair. In fact, many European hair care brands offer supplements formulated specifically for healthy hair growth, such as Renee Furterer's "Vitalfan Antichute" ($30), Phyto's "Phytophanere" ($48 at www.beauty.com).

Question:

I just turned 20 this year and I still can't get rid of my acne that shows up. It's not really blackhead acne however the red dots just won't go away. I've tried Clean and Clear, Proactive and Clearasil, nothing is working. On top of that I find my skin color is a little bit uneven. Some spots on my face are whiter or darker than the whole complex. What should I do?

Yoshiko: It is quite common for acne to last well into a person's 20s. This does not mean that it should go untreated. Also, your uneven skin tone may or may not have anything to do with your acne. I would definitely consult with a dermatologist to address both issues. You are actively battling your acne with medicated products. In theory that is fine, as long as you don't become too aggressive and don't harm your skin in the process. If you have sensitive skin, and/ or have a higher level of melanin in your skin (as a lot of Asian people do, even if they have fair skin), aggressive treatment with salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide, combined with sun exposure can lead to dark spots and uneven skin tone. Personally, I stay away from benzoyl peroxide (one of the active ingredients in Proactive products), exactly because they leave dark marks on my skin that last for months. I have read that salicylic acid can cause the same issue as well.

If I were you, I would take a step back and assess your skincare program. How many medicated products are you using per day? How often do you switch products? What is the concentration of the active ingredients in the products? For example, a 5% benzoyl peroxide cream may work just as well as a 10% cream, but have fewer side effects. If you are using a medicated cream, you may not need a medicated cleanser. If you consider your acne severe, I would consult with a dermatologist about trying a special light and laser therapy, which may not only improve acne, but also improve discoloration and superficial scarring, often associated with acne.

Check out Yoshiko's skin care line www.juaraskincare.com

Let your questions and Yoshiko will answer them in next month's issue!